SCRAMBLED EGGS WITHOUT ISH

I grew up in Petaluma, CA , a sweet little river town about 49 miles north of San Francisco.    In its’ day, Petaluma was famous for being The Egg Basket of The World.  It even had a semi pro football team called the Leghorns. Like the Napa Valley is all about grapes, Petaluma was all about chickens and eggs.  I hated the texture and taste of eggs until I was in college and someone made me an omelet.  It was the chalazae, the white spot in an egg that made me gag. I did not use that word. I have always referred to that white spot as the “ish”. ( I probably meant “ick”. )  Last Sunday my friend, Matt Kramer, a wine and food writer (A Passion for Piedmont is his great cookbook and he is a senior wine editor of The Wine Spectator) showed me his method for making scrambled eggs.  It makes the most delicious, creamy, flavorful, perfect  scrambled eggs that I have ever tasted…and NO ish!

Take as many eggs as you want to scramble and break them into a bowl.  Whisk for about 20 seconds.  Using a medium mesh strainer, pour the eggs into the strainer and push them through the strainer with a rubber spatula into another bowl.  Melt a knob of butter in a saute pan, and pour the strained eggs into the pan.  With a spatula or spoon,  draw the eggs towards the center of the pan.  As they start to firm up, take the eggs off the heat and continue to stir until finished.  Add a little more butter if you wish, or sprinkle some chives or grated cheese on top.  Serve with crispy bacon.

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CALIFORNIA DREAMING

Throughout the Summer and Fall we occasionally host wine lunches and dinners at our winery for special guests and wine lovers. Today I am preparing dinner for an adventurous group of 30 world travelers and wine patrons who plan unique, unusual venues for a yearly get together of their special group (they even have a special name for themselves).Last year they held their dinner on the Great Wall of China!   I usually rely on my make it ahead short rib recipe which I have been making for many years.  For this group I tweaked it a bit and liked the results so much, I think that this is my new standby.  The chocolate, orange and mustard in the red wine reduction is a real game changer.  And, it is a very rich sauce that will pair well with our big California Cabernet Sauvignon.  So for appetizers, I will be making some pizzas, including Mac’s Lobster Pizza (recipe on this site) and a Pear, Procuitto, Blue Cheese Pizza, as well as my old favorite from Sante Fe’s Pink Adobe, shrimp. Next will be a Farro Salad with Roasted Mushrooms from Food52.  The short ribs will be served upon a nest of a simple potato pancake, and accompanied by my Spicy Butternut Squash (recipe on this site) and sauteed fennel, celery and onions.  Dessert will be my rich and decadent Coffee-Nochella Bread Pudding , topped with unsweetened whipped cream.  A little glass of my homemade Nocino will also be served.  I hope that not much later, I will be off to dreamland!

CALIFORNIA SHORT RIBS

 6 pounds beef short ribs, bone in (be sure and ask your butcher for the meaty end only)                2 cups sweet yellow onions, chopped                                                                                                          1 cup celery, chopped                                                                                                                         1 cup carrots, chopped                                                                                                                        1 1/2 whole bottle dry red wine (I used Cabernet)                                                                                                                      1 tablespoon bittersweet chocolate,                                                                                                    2 tablespoons orange zest , wide strips  (or make Francis Mallmann’s Orange Confit…fabulous)                                                                                                                  1 teaspoon dijon mustard                                                                                                                    Olive oil to saute short ribs and vegetables

1.  Salt and pepper the ribs and brown them on all sides in a little olive oil in a large dutch oven.

2.  When the ribs are browned on all sides, remove them from the pot.  Pour off the fat, then add a little olive oil.  Add the vegetables and saute them until the onion becomes translucent .

3.  Add the red wine to the pot, then add back the ribs and if needed cover with enough water . Add the orange or orange confit into the pot

4.  Put the lid on the dutch oven and braise the short ribs in a 275 degree oven for about 3 hours, or until very tender.

5.  Remove from the oven; using a slotted spoon remove the meat from the pot and set aside. Also remove the vegetables  and press to extract all the juice that you can.

6.  Strain the sauce and return to the pot. Add the orange back to the pot.

7.  Heat the sauce and add the chocolate, the orange, and reduce until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.  Remove the orange.

8.  Finish by swirling the mustard into the sauce.

9.  Reheat the ribs.

10.  Serve with sauce poured over the meat, and pass a pitcher of sauce for those who want more.

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Mendoza, Argentina

Freddy and I stayed at Cavas Wine Lodge while we were visiting Mendoza. Cecila, the owner, is a wonderful innkeeper and she made us feel like we were her personal friends. The verdant grape growing valley is surrounded by the dramatic snow covered Andes in the distance. We ate almost all of our meals at the Lodge because there was always just what we were craving. In the case of lunch, we had this simple vegetable recipe for three days. I just made it today for lunch at home and there are leftovers for guess what…lunch tomorrow.

RATATOUILLE

Serves 6

4 cups eggplant, small dice (1 large eggplant)
1 1/2 cups red(or yellow) peppers, small dice
2 cups onions, small dice
1 cup tomato sauce
2 cups zucchini, small dice
1 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 cup minced coriander
1 cup shaved parmesan cheese
6 soft poached eggs (one for each)

1.Dice all the vegetables the same size. Saute the eggplant, garlic, onions and pepper in a little olive oil until it starts to soften. I try to use as sparingly as possible because even though olive oil is good for you, it contains a lot of calories.
2. Then add the zucchini and tomato sauce and continue to cook until all the vegetables are thoroughly cooked.
3. Mince the coriander and shave the parmesan.
4. Poach the eggs.
5. Place a mound of ratatouille on each plate, top with an egg and sprinkle with coriander and shaved parmesan.

Posted in vegetables- ratatouille | 3 Comments

Lacinato Kale Salad with Spicy Peanut Dressing

Our trip to South America was just what we needed. We spent our time in Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Salta in Argentina and The Atacama Desert, and Valparaisa in Chile, a little time in Uraguay and a little time in Lima, Peru. We left craving for more, like Machu Picchu, but it was raining there and we had been gone for almost a month. I thought that our choices of food would be overwhelmingly meat. I was wrong. We went to a famous for its’ meat restaurant the first night in BA and then ate mostly fish for the rest of the trip(there was the time when I ordered what I thought he said was lamb and it turned out to be llama!)We missed vegetables a lot! The South Americans use them for garnishes, but not so much as a real side. So, when we returned a couple of days ago, we stopped at the Rutherford Grill for lunch and we both ordered huge salads. Mine was a kale salad. This salad is sort of , but not really the same salad. I have been making it for 3 days now, sometimes adding chicken, but mostly not.
The picture is one that I took in Valparaiso which is a gritty seaport city, very scenic, rusty, very, very steep streets and sidewalks that are part steps, a cement stairmaster to our hotel. There is graffiti EVERYWHERE. It’s not the tagging, bad spelling kind of graffiti (there IS some of that too). It is art. There are literally thousands of them all over the city. Some are complete buildings. It’s like the old broad put on lipstick and eyeshadow and dressed herself up. It’s amazing.

Spicy Peanut Dressing
3 tablespoons smooth, natural peanut butter
3 tablespoons warm water
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons fresh minced ginger
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
Put all the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth.

Kale salad
1 large bunch Lacinato kale, very small chop
1/2 cup minced fresh mint
1 cup walnuts, chopped

Toss the kale, mint and walnuts with the dressing. Taste and add more dressing if needed.

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BANANA BRIOCHE BREAD PUDDING

Bread Pudding is one of Freddy’s favorite desserts. He loves bananas, too, so I created a pudding just for him. He is being careful about his sugar intake so I added NO sugar to this recipe. The bananas are so sweet and the cinnamon so fragrant that there is no need for any sugar. The addition of sliced almonds gives the pudding a little final crunch.

serves 8

7 cups dry brioche cubes
3 cups whole milk
3 large eggs
3 bananas
3/4 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 cup sliced almonds
1 cup golden raisins
pinch of salt
3 tablespoons butter for the baking dish

1. Blend the milk, cream, eggs, 2 bananas, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. Add a pinch of salt.
2. Put the cubed brioche bread, almonds, raisins and a sliced banana in a large mixing bowl.
3. Pour the milk, egg, and banana mixture into the dry ingredients and gently mix.
4. Pour into a a buttered souffle’ or other baking dish and place in a larger baking dish for a water bath baking method.
5. Pour water to half way up the side of the inner pudding dish and place in a 325 degree oven for about an hour
6. Remove when the pudding is cooked and the top is golden. Sometimes I shave a little bittersweet chocolate on the top.

The picture was taken when Freddy and I were in Sicily last year. A very dramatic place we visited was The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento…one of the most important archeological sites in the world.

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MY FAVORITE CRAB CAKES

Crab season is on big time right now and that means my favorite crab, the Dungeness, is available fresh and ready for appetizers, lunch, dinner and just because! Crab cakes are delicious for a first course for dinner or as an appetizer depending on how large you make them or as dinner itself which is one of my favorite meals. Freddy and I both love making a dinner of crab cakes plopped on top of a arugula salad and a side of french fries. We ate the crab cakes before I had time to take the pic, so here is a pic of our 1890 Victorian farm house on a foggy morning. It is a typical summer morning in the Napa Valley and we are, as usual, above the fog.

serves 4, more if made smaller for appetizers

1 pound Dungeness crab meat
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1/2 cup chopped red onion
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 cups panko, or plain dried bread crumbs
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup all purpose flour
oil for frying crab cakes

1. Mix the mayonnaise, crab meat, cilantro, parsley, red onion and lemon juice with your hands to make four patties.
2. Set up three bowls: 1) flour, 2)egg, 3) dry bread crumbs
3. Gently dip the crab patties in the flour, then the egg, then the bread crumbs.
4. Heat oil and fry each crab cake on medium heat until lightly browned.

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DIAMOND MOUNTAIN CHILI

We are back from a trip to Florida to sell wine, and then we took a long weekend and went to Disney World with our son and granddaughter. The Magic Kingdom is quite an experience and I would not recommend it without the expert guidance of a six year old. She not only knew the best rides but she has a keen eye for the best stuffed toys to commemorate them. Then back to our own magic kingdom on the top of Diamond Mountain. I made this chili for that football game and I have to say that I will be making it many more times. Don’t be daunted by the list of ingredients. The recipe is actually very easy. It’s flavors are built on lots of spices,(and even cocoa) vegetables and lean meat. Once you configure your mis en place and prepare the vegetables and meats, the rest is easy peasy. I made it medium hot (wimpy Freddy), but add more jalapeno peppers if you can handle the heat.

serves 8

. 1/2 cup olive oil
. 3 cups yellow onions, medium chop
. 3 jalapeno peppers, seeded and minced
. 2 green bell peppers, seeded and chopped
. 2 tablespoons minced garlic cloves (peeled and minced)
. 3 tablespoons chili powder
. 2 tablespoons ground cumin
. 3 tablespoons dried oregano
. 1 tablespoon paprika
. 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
. 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
. 3 tablespoons ground unsweetened cocoa powder
. 2 pounds lean ground sirloin
. 1 pound sweet Italian sausage
. 8 ounces hot Italian sausage
. 6 cups canned tomatoes (or your own)
. 1/2 cup tequila
. 12 ounces beer

1. In a large pot, saute’ the onions in the oil until soft. Then add the peppers and garlic and continue to saute’ for about 10 minutes. (don’t brown). Add all the spices and the cocoa and stir to mix all the ingredients. Remove from the heat until time to add the meat.
2. In another large pan, brown the meats. If the sausages are in casings, remove and crumble. Break up the large pieces as you saute’ the meat. Cook until all pink is gone.
3. Add the meats to the vegetable mixture and continue to cook at medium heat. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices, the tequila and beer and simmer for at least an hour.
4. To serve, I usually serve in a bowl with a slice of fresh lime to squeeze over the chili. I don’t add salt, but if you must, use very sparingly.

And of course, the chili only gets better if served the next day when the spices have really developed more complex flavors.

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